Explainer

What makes a canelé custardy

What
Six popular canelé recipes, normalised to percentages of total batter weight, to find what actually decides the interior.
Source
My own ratio analysis —halfcadence.github.io/recipes
Back to

Flour, as a share of total batter, is what decides whether a canelé comes out custardy or cakey: 9–14% for a custardy interior, firm and bread-like much above 15%. Everything else in the recipe is richness and colour. I found it by normalising six popular recipes to percentages of batter weight.

The one idea

So you can read any canelé recipe by weighing its flour against everything else. The ones that disagree about rum, vanilla or resting time are arguing about flavour; the one that moves the flour is the one that changes what you get.

1The number

Across the six recipes, the ones people call “custardy” sit at 9–14% flour. Push past 15% and the crumb sets up firm. The recipe I use lands at the high end and leans on fat to stay rich rather than dry.

9–14%flour, as a share of total batter, for a custardy interior— above ~15% it turns cakey and bread-like
more custardy · soft, fragile
15%
cakey · firm, bread-like
flour 9%flour 18%

2What each part does

Four levers, and only the first one changes the texture. The other three decide how it tastes.

Flour
Structure. More = cakey and firm; less = custardy but fragile. The main lever.
Sugar
Sweetness and caramelisation. More = a darker shell; less = paler, less caramel.
Fat
Butter, cream, yolk fat → richness. The lean recipes taste custardy but hollow. Fat is flavour.
Egg
Yolks bind and emulsify for a rich set; more whole egg makes it sturdier but less silky.

3Check yourself

Four questions. The answer appears when you pick one.

Explain ·andrewshiau.com · Press ⌥G for the grid · Set on a 12-column grid