Explainer
What makes a canelé custardy
Flour, as a share of total batter, is what decides whether a canelé comes out custardy or cakey: 9–14% for a custardy interior, firm and bread-like much above 15%. Everything else in the recipe is richness and colour. I found it by normalising six popular recipes to percentages of batter weight.
So you can read any canelé recipe by weighing its flour against everything else. The ones that disagree about rum, vanilla or resting time are arguing about flavour; the one that moves the flour is the one that changes what you get.
1The number
Across the six recipes, the ones people call “custardy” sit at 9–14% flour. Push past 15% and the crumb sets up firm. The recipe I use lands at the high end and leans on fat to stay rich rather than dry.
2What each part does
Four levers, and only the first one changes the texture. The other three decide how it tastes.
3Check yourself
Four questions. The answer appears when you pick one.